Let's talk about tattoos, shall we?
(Laughter)
I know some of you here tonight
have probably got a sneaky
little tattoo hidden away,
which means you're in the cool club.
Don't worry, the cool club's
not exclusive,
you can join at any time.
(Laughs)
But what really springs into mind
when I say the word tattoo?
Is it artistic, expressive,
beautiful, ugly, intimidating,
just not for you?
There's no wrong answers, by the way.
Have you ever considered tattoos
to be empowering or healing?
Tattoos are actually steeped
in the history of healing.
5,000-year-old Ötzi the Iceman
was discovered with markings
tattooed on his limbs
in areas that would have been
causing him chronic pain.
In cultures and tribes throughout history,
and even in modern times,
symbols are tattooed
onto parts of the body
to alleviate symptoms of chronic illness.
And it works.
Now whether you believe in "juju,"
mind over matter healing
or placebo effect,
or whether you consider this
may actually be a science not yet proven,
there's something pretty special
about using tattooing for healing.
In our culture, we focus more
on aesthetics, don’t we?
But tattoos can still be very healing.
If someone has a part of their body
that they don't like to show off,
you put a tattoo
that they really love on there,
they are first on the nudist
beach in the summer every time.
(Laughter)
People use decorative tattoos
to cover scars
or to signify a fresh start
or even to commemorate a loved one
that they may have lost.
And all of those things can have
such a positive effect
on someone's mental health.
But tattoos are not just for adornment.
They also have a place
in the medical field.
Tattooing without pigment,
known as microneedling,
dry needling, collagen induction therapy,
can have an amazing effect on scar tissue.
It can reduce tightness
in a scar, aiding mobility.
It can flatten a raised scar.
And it can reduce
the appearance of a scar.
We can even add
skin-tone pigment into a scar
to reduce the contrast between
the scar and the surrounding skin,
giving a camouflaged effect.
We can tattoo hair follicles
to give a balding gent a shaved head look
or to add density to thinning hair,
which is amazing for all genders.
We can tattoo eyebrows,
belly buttons, toenails.
We can improve
the appearance of a cleft lip.
We can separate webbed toes.
The possibilities are endless.
Tonight, we're going to talk
about areola restorative tattooing.
This is where we fix or create
an areola, a nipple complex,
generally for people that have been
through some kind of surgery.
There are many reasons as to why someone
would go through breast surgery.
But tonight, we're going to focus
on breast cancer.
When somebody loses
their breast to cancer,
they have a mastectomy, and they choose
to have a breast reconstruction.
The majority of time,
the nipples don't make it.
And when this happens,
that person often doesn't connect
with their new breast.
They don't have an emotional
attachment to it,
they just see it as lumps of skin.
And sometimes when you add
a nipple and areola complex
to a reconstructed breast,
it's like putting the cherry on the cake.
(Laughter)
It allows that person
to feel a sense of wholeness,
confidence,
maybe even a little bit sexy.
And it's an interesting phenomenon.
When you put a nipple onto a breast
that didn't have a nipple,
all of a sudden it's a bit taboo.
But what happens if that tattoo fades?
Does the empowerment fade as well?
I'm going to talk through how I came
to the answer to that question.
I started my tattoo
apprenticeship in 2008.
I use the term
"apprenticeship" very loosely
because there actually aren’t any formal
qualifications in any kind of tattooing,
and there aren't any regulations
regarding quality.
So an apprenticeship in traditional
body art is work-based training.
You work under master tattooers,
learning everything that you need
to know about how to tattoo
before you even ever do a tattoo.
The day I came to create my first tattoo
was the most terrifying day of my life.
(Laughs)
And the only thing I could liken it to
is like learning to drive.
I'm guessing most of you have sat
in a car at some point,
and a lot of us have sat in cars
our whole lives.
We've watched other people drive.
They make it look really easy.
Some people can even
multitask while driving.
Not recommended, but they can do it.
And then when you get into that driver's
seat yourself for the first time,
you suddenly realize
you're in charge of a death machine.
You don’t know which foot
the brake pedal is
or what gear you’re supposed to be in.
You’re driving in the middle of the road,
you're about to hit your mates,
everything feels
like you're moving really fast,
you must be doing 90 miles an hour.
You’re going five miles an hour,
and there’s a queue of traffic behind you.
That for me is what learning
to tattoo was like.
There are so many variables.
You’ve got to think about your setup,
your machine, the person’s skin,
the person's pain threshold.
The list goes on,
and it’s very overwhelming.
It takes most tattoo artists
about three years of full-time tattooing
to reach a point where tattooing actually
becomes like second nature,
the same as driving becomes
second nature after a while.
I was doing work-based training,
so I always had support.
If I came across a situation
I didn't know how to overcome,
I had someone to help me,
which meant that nobody ever left me
with a really terrible tattoo.
(Laughter)
Which is important
because as empowering
as a great tattoo can be,
a bad tattoo can have
a really negative effect
on someone's quality of life.
If learning how to tattoo body art
is like learning to drive a car,
learning how to do medical tattooing
on damaged skin that's scarred
or may have been through
radiation or had necrosis
would be like learning
to drive an Arctic lorry.
Same basic skill set,
but a lot more pressure
and a lot more knowledge needed.
When I decided I wanted to move
into medical tattooing,
I went about my learning in two ways.
The first, like most people that want
to learn anything, I did a course.
And the course I chose to do
was in areola micropigmentation.
This word micropigmentation
is a little bit misleading.
It sounds very clean, doesn't it?
It sounds professional, very suit and tie.
But I'm going to tell you a secret.
It means tattoo.
(Laughter)
Micropigmentation is the act
of implanting pigment into the dermis,
which is the definition of a tattoo,
but it sounds nicer, doesn't it,
a bit less scary.
The difference appears to come
in the fact that micropigmentation
is designed to fade,
and it's really designed
for the tattooing of eyebrows,
lips and eyeliner,
and it's designed to fade
and facilitate a regular top up.
And when it comes to permanent makeup,
there are many reasons as to why
that would be important,
but one of which is that fashions change.
I'm not sure about you,
but my nipples have never
really been affected by fashion.
(Laughter)
These courses last
about two to three days,
and they're aimed at people
that already do micropigmentation,
so permanent make-up artists.
But they are also aimed at people
that have never even seen
a tattoo machine before,
such as people from the medical field,
which would be like teaching someone
to drive an Arctic lorry in two days
and just handing them the keys
without them having ever driven a car,
wouldn't it?
Even after ten years
of tattooing body art,
my two days didn't fill me
with confidence.
I needed more knowledge.
I chose to do a mentorship
with a lady called Stacie-Rae Weir.
Stacie-Rae is the founder of ART
which stands for Areola
Restorative Tattoo,
and it's a global collective of highly
skilled restorative tattoo artists
that all work to a standard set by ART.
In an industry that has no standards,
a standard that's high enough
is really important.
ART focuses on three main aspects.
The first is experience.
We can't learn how to tattoo damaged skin
until we've mastered
tattooing healthy skin.
We have to learn how to do something
called reading the skin.
This is where we can tell,
as we're tattooing,
how much trauma we are causing,
when to change our techniques.
That takes time, that needs experience.
The second is realism.
Nipples are as unique as fingerprints,
although not an alternative
to fingerprints.
(Laughter)
We have to have some artistic ability
to create something truly realistic
that's actually going to make
someone feel whole again.
And the third is permanence.
I have to be completely honest.
I didn't really grasp
how important permanence was
when it came to these tattoos,
until I started doing them
out in the big, wide world.
People still come to me
with these really strange pink smudges
where their nipple should be.
And this is what's left over
from micropigmentation.
This is the fading tattoo.
I had one client who had
areola micropigmentation
performed 12 years before she came to me.
And she was so disappointed
with the way her breast looked
with these strange pink smudges
that she hadn't shown anyone
her breasts in all that time,
not even her husband.
And now she feels so confident
after I tattooed a realistic
nipple and areola complex for her
that will last forever,
she has allowed me
to show you the picture tonight.
So that's how empowering a tattoo can be.
But it did get me thinking,
why aren't we talking about this?
How many people are suffering in silence?
It's not the kind of thing
you talk about down the pub, is it?
"Alright then? How's your nipple doing?"
We just don't talk about it.
I wanted to give people a voice.
So I put together a survey.
With the help of ART
and the Nipple Innovation Project,
we shared this survey globally,
and we asked people that had had
restorative tattooing done
of their areola,
how they felt once it had healed.
We already know from previous
studies and experience
how amazing getting a nipple tattoo can be
for someone that hasn't got a nipple.
But we wanted to establish
whether there was a link
between the healing of that tattoo
and how that person felt moving forward.
Unsurprisingly, the majority of people
that completed our survey
had had areola micropigmentation done,
meaning that their tattoo faded.
Of this group, 81 percent admitted
that they were not satisfied
with the healed results.
51 percent admitted that they had suffered
adverse mental health effects
due to the healing of their tattoos.
There were a lot of really heartbreaking
comments on this survey,
and the one that spoke to me the most
is that there is a lady
who keeps her bra on in the bath
because she hates the look
of her breast reconstruction so much
because of her faded nipple tattoos.
Imagine keeping
your clothes on in the bath
just in case you catch
a glimpse of yourself in the mirror.
Imagine being the surgeon that has spent
hours creating a really beautiful,
symmetrical breast reconstruction
to have it aesthetically ruined
by poor nipple tattoos.
I am a trustee for the Nipple
Innovation Project.
We are the UK's first
tattoo cancer charity,
and our mission is to empower
and dignify breast cancer survivors
with 3D, realistic,
permanent nipple tattoos.
We have a directory of artists
throughout the UK
that all work to a standard set by NIP,
another standard, very important,
and funding is available from the charity
so that there is no financial
burden on the clients.
Our campaign for this year
has been #mychoice.
True empowerment comes
from making an informed decision.
We believe everybody should have access
to all of the knowledge that they need
to make this decision.
Some people were never told
that their tattoo was going to fade.
Some people found the idea of going
back to hospital every year for a top up
too traumatic.
People should know that there is a safe,
permanent alternative.
We recently spoke at the oncology
convention at the NEC,
which was a great success,
and one of the points
that we were really trying to make
is that just because someone’s got
funny-colored hair and tattoos
that draws on people with electric
crayons for a living,
it doesn't mean
that we're not professional.
It doesn't mean that we're not
producing quality results.
And it certainly doesn't mean
we don't care about our clients.
Long gone are the days
of the backstreet tattoo studio,
tattooing is actually a pretty
upstanding career now.
(Laughter)
So there you go.
The word tattoo is not a dirty word.
It's a transformational word.
It's a life-changing word.
And when you give someone a tattoo
that truly makes them feel whole again,
it gives them confidence
and a better quality of life,
that, my friends,
is how you use tattoos
as a tool for empowerment.
Thank you.
(Applause)